We arrive at Mparringon and camp close to the Lorora (gathering). Temporary manyattas (houses) have been set up especially for this ceremony to celebrate Morans (warriors) becoming elders. Fortunately we have arrived at the tail end of the celebration, and over 100 cows and 50 goats are to be slaughtered over the next few days.
There have been about 70 manyatta’s constructed in a circle for about 10 months; this is in preparation for the ceremony to celebrate Lmuget: when Morans becoming elders, once they are elders they are free to marry. Note: all celebrations happen via age groups, so the Morans at the celebration range from 15 to 30 years old. A Lorora happens once every 8 to 10 years. I am very, very lucky to witness this.
There have been about 70 manyatta’s constructed in a circle for about 10 months; this is in preparation for the ceremony to celebrate Lmuget: when Morans becoming elders, once they are elders they are free to marry. Note: all celebrations happen via age groups, so the Morans at the celebration range from 15 to 30 years old. A Lorora happens once every 8 to 10 years. I am very, very lucky to witness this.
We enter the Lorora and see that each manyatta is made of old rice bags, mud, cow dung and grass, it is a small hut, with one tiny window. It has a bed of cow skin (very comfortable), low stool, small fire (very smokey), it is dark and small inside. A very nice old lady invites us inside for chai. LeKuyieya, Safina & I sit on her bed/stool and take chai, they talk about the fact that over 100 cows and 50 goats will be slaughtered tomorrow. The Morans will cut their long hair off, cover their head in red ochre and after this ceremony are free to marry. If they have had children before this ceremony, he will have to pay an extra cow and 10,000 ksh to the chief. At this ceremony every Moran has to contribute 2 cows to tomorrows feast. Safina and the old lady have a discussion about how many cows are being slaughtered and what a waste it is. Many people will come for the feast, all the meat will be consumed (hopefully we might get some! We have not had meat for a week). The value of one cow is 60,000ksh ($60) – imagine if all that money was put towards a school, health centre, etc? Later I chat to Richard, a university educated Moran (banking) and he agrees: keeping traditions are great but some of them do no favours to the community. “Some are good, some keep us back”.
Note: “come-we-stay” is the word used to describe a defacto marriage that occurs before a Moran has been thru a Lmuget and is then allowed to marry.
Richard wears a kikoi (fabric wrapped around the waist). All the men do, even our camel handlers wear it as normal everyday wear. The kikoi is held up by a colorful, beaded maasi belt that also holds a big knife in a hand-made sheath, and a pouch for the mobile phone. The Morans then have red painted hair (ochre) and many, many beads around the neck, looping under the arm and over the chest. They are bare-chested. There are beads all up the neck and lots of bangles on the arms. They wear plastic flowers on the head and more beads around the chin. They carry a rungu (club) for defending themselves (against snakes etc) and a sobura (longer stick) to clear the way and to look after their animals. A siere (thicker, stronger stick) is carried by older men, it is very important and put close to their heads while sleeping. A Moran will carry 2 spears, they are leaned up against a manyatta while visiting, the young Moran’s spear is slightly different to the older men – so girls know not to go inside when an old man’s spear is leaning against it. A Moran will allows stand with his leg crossed and his stick between the legs.
(see that the end of his knife sheath is made from plastic bottle!)
As we sit in the smoky manyatta having chai we need to invite some Morans inside. LeKuyieya is married with a 4 year old boy and 2 month old girl, but has not been thru the Lminong ceremony
(this allows a husband to take chai/meal with his wife or other female. A Lminong ceremony takes place after the Lmuget – this one). Two Morans join us to have chai, what a picture! they look amazing, including the white plastic sandals and plastic flowers on the head. They sit on the bed in the small smoky room, LeKuyieya on the stool, lady by the fire and Safina & I in the doorway. The 3 of us have tears streaming down our faceand sniffing noses from the fire. Again this is not a typical tourist experience, it is the real deal. Wow.
Later in the day we return to the Lorora on the invitation of Richard and Musarini, two university educated brothers who have asked me to photograph the dancing. Morans try to present an arrogant stance, they are very proud of their appearance, preening and adjusting. The jumping and singing goes on for quite a while, I am thrilled to be part of it, then an old man blows a horn and this ushers all the women and children to leave, us included.
